The group got its start in 1952 in a bar in Barrio Marina in Matanzas, Cuba, when a group of youths began following the rhythms of a song by Arsenio Rodríguez that was then playing, using dishes and bottles, as is the style in “kitchen rumbas.”
Popular tracks: “El guaguancó de Matanzas” (Siboney,88), “Los Muñequitos de Matanzas” (Ace,90), “Rumba caliente” (Qbadisc,92), “Oyelos de nuevo” (Artex,93), “Real Rumba” (Corasón,94), “Vacunao” (Qbadisc,95) o “Po Iban Eshu” (Qbadisc,96).
Los Muñequitos de Matanzas are part of the living legend of African music in Cuba, and they remain very close to their Abakuá (Efik/Efo) roots. Abakua (Abakuá) is an Afro-Cuban men’s initiatory fraternity, or secret society, which originated from fraternal associations in the Cross River region of southeastern Nigeria and southwestern Cameroon. Known generally as Ekpe, Ngbe, or Ugbe among the multi-lingual groups in the region, these closed groups all used the leopard as a symbol of masculine prowess in war and political authority in their various communities.
Taxi Remedios – Cayo las Brujas official taxi 50 – 60 CUC, unofficial 35 CUC
Taxi Remedios – Caibarien 5 CUC
Taxi Remedios – Santa Klara 20 CUC
Horse cart from Che Monument to city center 1 CUC for 3 passangers
Taxi from Trinidad to the beach 1 CUC each (5 CUC)
Taxi Trinidad – Havana airport 25 CUC per person (120 CUC)
Taxi from Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 in Havana airport 20 CUC!!!!!! better don’t be there for the last moment and bare in mind Conviasa departs from domestic flights terminal even though it is bound to Carracas. We bargained to 10 CUC, still…
VIAZUL on different routes:
Havana – Vinales 12 CUC (3,5 h)
Vinales – Trinidad 40 CUC (8 h)
Trinidad – S. Klara 12 CUC (3 h)
S. Klara – Varadero 11 CUC ( 3 h)
Havana – Santiago 60 CUC
Varadero – Trinidad 20 CUC
Price of a room in Havana 20 CUC
Room in Vinales 6 CUC per person (15 CUC per room)
Havana tour in old American car (1 Hour) 30 CUC
Casa de la Musica in Havana 20 CUC
Entrance to a club in Vinales 2 CUC, toilet paper in this club 1 CUC, mojito 2.5 CUC
Bike rental in Vinales 1 CUC for the first hour, 2 CUC for 2 hours and after that 0.75 CUC per hour
Entrance to the caves in Vinales (1st) 3 CUC, (2nd) 5 CUC
Casa de la Musica Varadero 10 CUC
Organised tour from Varadero to The Bay of Pigs or Havana 40 CUC per person
Straw hat and leather shoes in Havana 15 CUC
Left luggage in Santa Clara 2 CUC per bag
Entrance to Art Museum in Santa Clara 2 CUC (additional photo charge 5 CUC)
Entrance to The Cave (club) in Trinidad 3 CUC
Body balm in Trinidad 3.5 CUC (in a shop you have to leave your bag in the locker and then at the exit security goes through your shopping, don’t loose your recipt!)
I be honest this post is not going to be long. I write it only because of a sense of obligation. I just want to show the fans of beach what the beach in Trinidad looks like. Because it is located in the southern part of the island you can find there amazing shells and parts of coral reef from Caribbean Sea.
The water was perfectly flat. Not a single cloud on the sky.
The colours of the water – amazing.
Fancy hotels, sunbeds, palm trees, beach bars, salesmen, shells, crabs… I went for a walk with Marysia and we found some shells which we took home with us. I had a coconut with rum which was the highlight of the morning. I think you will enjoy the pictures below. The next post will enclose all the prices I wrote down and maybe some useful information. I know I was looking for things like that while planning my budget.
We went on this excursion as a result of miscommunication. Marysia and Maria wanted to go horse riding. This is how it started. I didn’t care much. Adam didn’t want to go. And Michal from being indifferent came to a point of excitment. So this is how it happened. Marysia asked me if I want to go and I said “Yes, if Adam is coming” (knowing he is afraid of horses and doesn’t want to go), so she went on to him saying that I’m coming and if so he wants to come as well. He said “ok”. I guess this is because earlier we said that we will enojy the trip more if he comes. In a meantime we found out Maria is afraid of horses and she wants to go in a cart. This was easily arranged. And so Maria and Adam went in a cart and three of us on horseback. Destination: waterfall near Topes de Collantes.
Valley of the Sugar Mills is a series of three interconnected valleys: San Luis, Santa Rosa and Meyer. As the name suggests they were a centre for sugar production. I don’t know if you know, but Cuba became the world’s foremost sugar producer in XIX th century. Most of the sugar mills are in ruins, intact structures endure at some sites, including Guachinango, where the plantation house remains, and the plantation of Manaca Iznaga, where the owner’s house, a tower and some barracones (the original slave quarters) still stand.
This reminds me of Sugar Barons I read about in one of the books I read before coming to Cuba. They were the “Rockefellers” of Cuba. I found an interesting article with shocking facts, more as a trivia than anything else. Here are some of them, if you want to read it all click here.
One Cuban sugar baron tiled the floors of his Havana palace with Italian marble bedded down in sand imported from the Nile
Tomás Terry, the most successful sugar planter of Cuba’s colonial years, left $25 million on his death in 1886
Julio Lobo was known as the King of Sugar, not just of Havana but of the World, with an estimated personal fortune of $200 million, about $5 billion in today’s dollars
At age 21, just out of college, Lobo brokered the most lucrative sugar deal at that point — worth $6 million — with the British firm Tate and Lyle
In 1957, over fourteen thousand new cars manufactured in the United States were sold in Cuba and some 200 000 cars were registered on the island (1958 national vehicle census (reported in the magazine El Automóvil de Cuba). BTW some ifty thousand of those same vehicles were still in use in 2010, although not a single spare part was shipped to Cuba from the United States between October 1960 and late 2010.
In the decadent jet-set heaven of 1950s Havana, the only place to be was Tropicana, a pleasure dome where the shows (and showgirls) were dazzling, the gambling was high-stakes, and the revelers included Marlon Brando, Ernest Hemingway, Rita Hayworth, and J.F.K.
In 1956, the Tropicana nightclub premiered its first promotional flight from Miami to Havana on Cubana de Aviación—it was billed as the “Cabaret in the Sky.” The front seats of the plane had been taken out so the musicians could all fit in with their instruments – piano!!! bongo, drumms, trumpet. The passengers started off with pink daiquiris, and then, as soon as the plane took off, Rolando and Ana Gloria bounded out and started the show. They came out singing and dancing, prancing down the aisles, pulling the Americans up from their seats to dance and sing with them. Can you imagine???!!! That’s how they brought Nat King Cole to Havana that March, the first of three times he performed at Tropicana. ( our taxi driver in Havana told us Tropicana is now a place for old people. I still wish I have seen it! More on tropicana here)
Back to our trip. Two Italian girls (first time on a horse) came with us. They spoke very good German as they lived near Austria’s border. At the beginning the guide had to prod the horses that didn’t want to keep up. I noticed mine and Marysia’s were always the first to lead. Either one or another. It took me some time to get used to be in a saddle again. I tried rising trot and saddle seat (or basic position). The later is used in gallop mainly as far as I remember. Let me just say I I haven’t had such bruises on inner tights in my life! Anyway on the way to the waterfall the cart went separatley as part of the road was impassable for vehicle. We stopped on the way and had some refreshments (cerveza for me) where they offered us dinner on our way back, but we decided against it.
After trotting along muddy roads, crossing streams and field gates we entered the rainforest. The path was marked out by sharp edged stones. I got worried something might happen to our horses but we got through fine and dismounted them in previously prepared place. Trekking was now ahead of us. we passed the stand with manualy roasted and grounded coffee and headed for the waterfall. The path was narrow and sometimes barely visable. I felt a bit like those first explorers as the nature around seemed untouched by human presence. No litter, no bins, no benches, no concrete. Just water, stones, trees, lianas, plants, sun and fresh air with this distinctive smell.
And there it was. Waterfall.
There was naturally formed pond and cave where we could swim and enjoy refreshing water. More and more people were coming so it became less and less magical. I remember us girls could see it as a scenery for a perfect romance. Let me enjoy this notion.
On the way back our horses regained the will to live, or rather, seen in the imagination the end of slavery and we managed to gallop. This felt really good. Like I broke off the leash. It was worth all the bruises and John Wayne’s walk for the next week. At least for me that is. Adam and Maria complained about their cart. It was uncomfortable, they thought they gonna fall over more than once and they had to get off from time to time because the cart would be too heavy otherwise.
You know how they say the journey is more important than the destination. What I love abot my travel is that I’m almost always on the way. To see more, to experience new. New thoughts, new faces, new feelings, or the same ones just transformed by the change inside me. Every travel changes me as I try to leave my convictions behind and absorb. As today is the New Year’s Eve I wish you all:
Experiencing the diversity of the World and overcoming the fear of what is different and unknown, as this truly is, in my opinion, what makes life worthwhile. Happy New Year!
We were walking down one of the cooblestone streets of old town when we heard the laud voice of a rock guitar. We were heading back to our Casa to meet the rest of our group so we hesitated for a moment, but then thinking ‘you only live once’ we followed the music.
If I was to give one advice on how to have the best time in Cuba it would be ‘follow the music’ which might sound simple, but not necessarily is.
Up to now music we came across in Cuba had either little to do with salsa cubana or had commercial, tourist flavour. We almost gave up after missing the salsa show on our first night in Trinidad. That night we followed promise of a stranger and ended up in club called The Cave. And this is what happened. We were all dressed up and ready for dancing when we arrived in Plaza Major where Casa de la Musica in Trinidad is. We had to climb terraced, cobblestone stairs full of people and tables, just to find out the salsa show was over and all we could do is pay to get into a club with popular music. Disappointed we tried to enquiry if there is any place where we could dance salsa. This is when somebody told us about The Cave.
We didn’t know what to expect or how to get there. It was already after dark and we were heading for a deserted and unknown (to us) part of the town. We asked again and again for directions and as they were given in Spanish I didn’t understand a thing, so jst followed the rest. When we thought we were lost we asked for directions one more time and this time a Cuban decided to walk with us. It was getting more and more scary. We were heading outside the center of old town, there were no people on the streets and less and less street light. At some point we heard male voices from behind and thought we were trapped. Or maybe it was just me.
Suddenly our guide stopped and pointed towards the top of a muddy mountain. We could see a lamp post and some people underneath it. Well, I guess it felt safer than going back. The man who brought us there turned around and walked away. He came all this way just to make sure we don’t get lost. I felt bad about being so untrusty. The thing is I never used to be like that but this year (2012) was a hard one and I got hurt one time too many. I never wanted that to happen. I believe in people, it’s a councious choice, you can choose what yo want to believe in. So now I try to get rid of limp distrust and be back myself.
So we did climb the hill and found ourselves in front of a hole in the rock type of entrance. It looked promissing but no music was to be heard. We decided to pay 3 CUC each just to see it inside. The Club is called Ayala, located about 100 feet underground in massive nature cavern, is one of the most unique clubs I’ve been to anywhere. The music was laud, coctails strong (you get one in the price of ticket) and the dance floor full. Worth having a look and you might as well as love it if you hit the right time.
Let’s go back to the rock guitar. I think we were just on the corner of Calle Francisco Gomez Toro, we turned into it and went half of it’s lenght. There were three lads and two girls (one in my age the other around seven/eight). They were artists sitting in front of their gallery, drinking vodka made from bananas and celebrating the birthday of one of them. 30th. They invited us to sit down and join them. We didn’t speak Spanish, they spoke English a little bit, the willingness to communicate and laugh on both sides made us feel comfortable and open to non verbal communication. Or maybe it was the bananas. Adam exchanged cigarettes (modern age calument). Lucky Strike for Holywood and some local brand without the filter. We still don’t know if what they were saying meant that LS are better or shit. We listened to Nirvana and Iron Maiden. I didn’t want to leave but loyalty and guilt made us stand up and go to pick up our friends, so they could join the party and have some fun.
We came back with the rum, which Cuban told us is crap. Well we drunk it anyway. Maria was with us and alcohol was in our veins so suddenly conversation became very easy. More people joined and among them a couple that danced salsa. I asked them to give us a show, reluctantly they agreed. We couldn’t find a way to play the music and had to sort out a separate recorder but finally music was on and we were on our feet. First we watched them dance and then Marysia, Maria and I took some lessons. I had a great time. My dream came true. I think I need to make list of all the dreams that come true just so I keep track. Just a joke.
Afterwards somebody said to go to Casa de la Musica to watch the salsa performance. And so we did. We saw band playing and people dancing. Phenomenal couple in blue. Maria and I wanted to dance but no men seemed to be eager. We left them behind and took the dancing floor by force. This is because there were so many people it was hard to find space. After a while we saw our Cuban friends looking down at us with disapprovement. No, no, no, no… and now we danced in couples. Great night!
Plaza Mayor, Trinidad, Cuba. My main point of reference while navigating the old city of Trinidad. After one day I already felt familiar with the citiy’s layout. The Plaza is the historic centre of the town and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988.
I was walking the streets early in the morning when all tourists are sleeping, during the busiest times after the children were coming back from school and adults from work, early evenings when the youth occupied benches of the squares and late in the night when everyone was either in night club or bed.
The colonial houses of Trinidad have red terracotta tiled roofs supported out beyond the walls by wooden beams. The walls are pastel-coloured with wood and plasterwork details picked out in different colors to the brickwork. The large main door typically has a smaller entrance door cut into it. Majority of the houses has windows from floor to ceiling, opened to let the draft in. Through those you could observe the amazing insides of Cuban houses. The everyday life. Medical practice, children’s after school lectures, home businesses. I have even seen a birthday party with children and their parents singing ‘Happy Birthday’ in English.
The old town is separated from the rest of the city by gates guarded by police. Only locals transporting tourists can enter it by car. Any pedestrian can do it though. The cobblestone streets are narrow so walking is a more efficient way of transportation. When we entered old town in a taxi our first night we had no problems. We encountered them though wen after 20 minutes we wanted to leave. The policeman was very suspicious. We were leaving in only because they had no available spaces in our Casa and we were recommended another one outside the old town.
The last day of our stay we could see how the city changed in preparation for tourist season. Empty streets were now full of market stalls with traders recommending their goods. Music bands played popular Cuban music while crowds roamed packed streets. I’m glad it’s not the only sight I’ve seen in Trinidad. Buzz, crowds and music sweeping the streets have their charm but so does peace.
In Trinidad I found the Cuba I was looking for. With people playing domino on the streets, listening to music in front of their houses and dancing salsa in the streets.
Among the local customs noteworthy canary cages, suspended by the residents at the entrance to the warm colors painted houses, to ensure good luck and prosperity. Trinidad is famous in Cuba with producing lace. My friend brought back two tablecloths.
It was the first place where we saw salsa and African dance performances. I even got a dancing lesson from a couple of Cubans. It will be the subject of my next post. For now I just wanted to give you a sense how the city looks like, so enjoy the pictures.
In Varadero we decided to split. Michal and Marysia were to stay enjoying the beach and the three of us to go on to Santa Clara. We were supposed to meet the same evening in Trinidad. And this is what happened.
The three of us got up early morning. Somebody told us we need to be an hour before departure at the station to get tickets. As we hurried through out the empty streets I noticed the beautiful colors of the dawn. We got to the station 40 minutes too early and so I still got some time to get us a breakfast 3 x Pan de Tortilla and 1 Pan de Jamon, 5 CUP each. The ticket to Santa Clara was 11 CUC. We got luggage tickets. I have to say this surprised me as I didn’t expect they would take such precautions.
Before I went to Cuba I read a book about it written by a well know Polish voyager/traveller. During her visit she was looking for the truth about Che. Was he an idealist or simple murderer? As we all know the truth is never that simple. I guess you have better chance of finding the truth about a person when you meet him than from reading thousands of books, personal letters, watching photographs or videos. There is no harm in trying but certainty is unreachable. I myself was more interested in Hemmingway than Che, but for Maria the second was a real romantic hero. Her favorite song is Hasta Siempre, Comandante by Cuban composer Carlos Puebla. All our stay the meaning of the song was a mistery to us. Now finally I found the translation of lyrics. Enjoy:
We learned to love you
from the historical heights
where the sun of your bravery
laid siege to death
Chorus:Here lies the clear,
the dear transparency
of your beloved presence,
Commander Che Guevara
Your glorious and strong hand
over History it shoots
when all of Santa Clara
awakens to see you
You come burning the breeze
with springtime suns
to plant the flag
with the light of your smile
Your revolutionary love
leads you to new undertaking
where yearned is the firmness
of your liberating arm
We will carry on
as we followed you then
and with Fidel we say to you:
When we arrived in Santa Clara there were crowds of locals and taxi drivers. As we wanted to get to Santa Clara the day before we did, we enquired in Varadero about accommodation. We were told the owner of the Casa wouldn’t be able to host us as late in the night as the last bus arrives. This is why we took the first morning bus the next morning and decided not to stay overnight.
It seems the woman still thought we would come as she waited on us in the station. Hounded by taxi drivers from which we could not get free we tried to enquire about buses to Trinidad. There was one taxi driver in particular, quite old and determined. He didn’t speak English and kept saying he will show us four museums. He followed us everywhere. To the office of Viazul (where we found out there are no more buses to Trinidad), to the left luggage (where we left our backpacks), to the place where we ordered pizza and hugo natural and finally when we sat down on the steps of the bank to look at the map. I don’t know how it happened that he left us alone but his silent presence was annoying. We grew impatient as we were worried how we are going to get to Trinidad.
Anyway just one more thing. There were buses for locals that went to Trinidad they just wouldn’t let us on the bus. I read about it before coming to Cuba. The driver if caught “smuggling” tourists would get in trouble. We tried anyhow. First time it was “NO”, second time it was “You look like Cuban Maria you could go, but the other two no way”. I still think if you speak directly to the driver it can be done.
We decided to walk to the Monument and Mausoleum of Ernesto “Che” Guevara. And it is not far so you don’t have to hire a taxi. It really looks impressive from outside. Mausoleum houses the remains of Ernesto “Che” Guevara and 29 of his fellow combatants killed in 1967. Guevara was laid to rest with full military honors on 17 October 1997 after his exhumed remains were discovered in Bolivia and broughut to Cuba.
The most distinctive is a bronze 22 foot statue of Che looming over the whole complex. The adjacent decorative wall depicts Che in the Sierra Maestra consulting with Fidel, beside Camilo Cienfuegos, and in the mountains on horseback. Another section shows Che as Minister of Industry performing his usual voluntary work. Lastly literacy tutors, children in schools, and young pioneers are depicted issuing the daily salute that all Cuban children recite each morning “We will be like Che.”The museum is dedicated to his life, work and fight. You can see there his pictures, notbooks, letters, official documents, pistols, guns, doctor uniform and many other personal belongings or belongings of his fellow combatants.
On the way from the monument to the city center we stopped horse cart (1 CUC for all 3 of us) but I still think you can easily walk if you have time and will. We visited the art museum (2 CUC additional fee for photographs and recording). In the price of ticket you get a guide tour of Cuban/Spanish house. I think it could have been more interesting. I asked some questions but the answers were not encouraging. It holds objects from XVII to XX century. The oldest object being chest for clothes and a cabinet with a secret drawer, that saw pirates times. As you can imagine cabinet creator paid with his life for its performance. I wish the guide told us some pirate stories.
We also saw The Armored Train Park-Museum (Parque del Tren blindado). I didn’t go in but Maria and Adam visited all railway wagons. If you don’t know Che used tractors to raise the rails of the railway and derailed train which transported troops.
After sightseeing we decided to get something to eat. On the way one Cuban started chatting to us and wouldn’t leave us alone. He followed us to a disturbing restaurant with no windows, then took a table next to ours in a restaurant where we had terrible spagetti and followed us throughout the streets on our way back to the bus station. We had to take a taxi to Trinidad and the driver told us that even he that he doesn’t have a licence is worth for him to pay the ticket for the price of our journey.
Now, the best part of my stay in Cuba is to follow. Trinidad! I just can’t wait to tell you all about it!